Why sampling is staged
Underwear is judged on fit, feel and appearance after washing, and these cannot all be assessed at once. Staging the work lets you settle the silhouette and fabric first, then measurements and fit, then branding and packaging, and finally the materials used in bulk. A change late in the process costs more than the same change early.
The stages
| Stage | What it proves | What to check | What to record |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reference review | That both sides read the garment the same way | Reference garment or sketch, measurements, fabric direction | Agreed brief and the first version of the specification |
| First sample | Silhouette, construction and fabric feel | Shape, stitching, fabric hand, pouch and waistband build | Photos and a list of differences from the reference |
| Fit sample | Finished measurements and fit on real wearers | Measure every point against the spec; wearer comments in motion | Measurement table with pass or fail, and fit comments tied to points of measure |
| Wear and wash test | Behaviour after wear and washing | Re-measure after washing; shrinkage, twisting, colour change, pilling, elastic recovery | Before and after measurements and photos |
| Branding and packaging sample | Logo, labels and packaging match the artwork | Placement, colours, label content, pack format and barcode | Approved artwork versions and packaging specification |
| Size-set sample | That grading works across the size run | Measure the smallest, base and largest sizes at least | Graded measurement table |
| Pre-production sample | That bulk materials produce the approved garment | Compare with the approved fit sample; check bulk fabric, trims and labels | Signed approval; keep the sample as the production reference |
| Top-of-production sample | That production is on track and matches the approved reference | Compare the first finished pieces with the pre-production sample | Approval or a list of corrections before the rest of the order is completed |
Not every project needs every stage. A close copy of a garment you already sell may need fewer rounds than a new design. What matters is that each stage you do have is used for its own question.
Give feedback that gets fixed
- Send one consolidated list per round, not a stream of messages.
- Tie every comment to a point of measure or a photo; “tight” is not actionable, “thigh 1 cm too small” is.
- Mark each item as must-fix or preference.
- Do not reverse a previous instruction without saying so; contradictory comments are a common cause of extra rounds.
- Record the change in the revision log of the tech pack.
The tech pack guide shows how to take measurements and set tolerances so that comments can be matched to numbers.
Run a wear and wash test
Have several wearers wear the sample through a normal day, including sitting, walking and, for sport styles, exercise. Wash it following the care label for several cycles, then re-measure the waist, rise and leg opening and compare them with the original table. Look for twisting at the side seams, curl at the waist and leg edges, loss of elastic recovery, colour transfer and pilling.
Ask your lab which standard test methods suit your market if you need formal results; common references include ISO 6330 for domestic washing, ISO 5077 and AATCC TM135 for fabric dimensional change, and AATCC TM150 for garments.
Sample costs and timing: what to ask each supplier
Sample cost, freight and timing depend on the style, the fabric and the number of rounds, so ask each supplier to state the terms rather than comparing a single number.
- Is the sample fee credited against a bulk order, and under what conditions?
- Who pays sample freight?
- How many revision rounds does the fee cover?
- When does the sample clock start, and which approvals or materials does it wait for?
- Can a nominated fabric or trim be used, and does it change the timing?
The approval paper trail
Before bulk production starts, collect the documents that define what you approved, and keep them together.
- The approved sample, labelled and photographed, or the supplier’s record of it.
- The measurement sheet with tolerances and the graded size table.
- The bill of materials and colour references.
- Artwork versions for waistband, labels, hangtags and packaging.
- Test requirements and, if you asked for them, the results.
- A written approval from a named person with a date.
- A rule for change control: substitutions of fabric, trims or labels need written approval before they are used.
Common questions
How many sample rounds should I expect?
It depends on how close the first sample is to your reference and how many changes you ask for. Ask the supplier how many revision rounds are included, and reduce rounds by tying feedback to measurements.
Can I skip the pre-production sample?
It is the stage that proves bulk materials produce the approved garment. Skipping it moves that risk to the order itself, so most buyers keep it.
Can I request a sample in a different size or colour?
Tell us the size and colour in your brief. The quotation states what each sample includes and how any extra samples are charged.
Ready to brief a style?
Send a reference garment or sketch, the quantities you are considering and your destination. The quotation will state what is included and how minimums are counted.